Saturday, December 3, 2011

So, Your New "Cheeseboard" Does NOT Fit Your Stand!?!?

You are all excited because your High School or Summer Swim Club ordered a new "Cheeseboard" and it just arrived from the factory. You are an experienced and savvy diving board customer so of course you know to INSPECT the diving board upon arrival by opening the box to look for any shipping damage in the presence of the driver. As is usually the case, no shipping damage has occurred so now you enthusiastically install the new "Cheeseboard" and much to your shock and dismay -- IT DOES NOT FIT! The fulcrum will only roll back to about the "7" on the number strip and even worse -- if you roll the fulcrum all the forward, it rolls OFF the rubber channels and onto the unprotected metal of the diving board in front of the "1" on the number strip. HOW COULD THIS BE?

There is a simple explanation for what has occurred. The diving stand that you have installed now was originally installed to accept the non-competition model diving board (aka the 16' Duraflex Board). The board you just purchased is the competition model diving board (aka the 16' Modified Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard"). If you were to lay a 16' Duraflex Diving Board next to a 16' Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard" (upside down) the first thing you would notice is the rubber channels on the underside of the "Cheeseboard" are 5.5 inches farther back than those of the 16' Duraflex Board. This is because the competition model board bends at a point that is farther back than that of the non-competition model board and therefore the installation footprint of the diving stand with Cheeseboard is 5.5 inches different from the installation footprint for a diving stand with a 16' Duraflex (non-competition board). The quickest way to ruin a diving board is to allow a metal on metal contact situation where the unprotected metal ribs of the diving board are allowed to bounce directly on the metal of the fulcrum roller. (Your $3500.00 "rocket ship" can become a $60.00 piece of scrap aluminum very quickly!)

The simple "fix" for this problem is to order a set of eight six-inch rubber channels with glue kit and attach them to the underside of the board directly in front of the existing rubber channels. While this will NOT allow you to get the full range of motion for the fulcrum back past the number "7," it will protect your diving board by making sure the fulcrum does not "roll off" the existing rubber channels as is the case now.

The correct "fix" is to un-install the main support (legs and fulcrum box) and re-install them 5.5" farther back OR remove the ladder assembly and re-install it 5.5" farther forward (assuming your pool depth and slope would allow for this moving the board forward). Most schools or clubs in your situation choose the first option until they have the time and money to do the 2nd option. Choosing the correct "fix" method not only protects your diving board from the "metal on metal" situation but it also allows the diver to get the full range of intended fulcrum settings.

Whichever method you choose -- it should be done before anybody is allowed to dive off the board. You never want the unprotected metal diving board bouncing directly on the metal fulcrum -- properly positioned rubber channels are a must!

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Band-Aid for a Slippery Diving Board

If you have a Duraflex Diving Board and the non-slip surface is starting to show signs of wear, the ONLY acceptable "fix" is to send your diving board back to the Duraflex Factory for inspection and refinish.

Despite what you may hear from friendly sales people at Swimming Pool Supply Stores, there are NO acceptable products sold that you can use on your slippery (Duraflex) diving board that are approved by the Duraflex Factory. The question becomes, what can you use on your diving board to get you through the end of the season at which time you can then send your diving board back to Duraflex for a factory refinish. The factory approved answer is "3M Safety Walk Strips" that are sold at most big box or hardware stores around the country.

As you can see in the picture above, the adhesive backed stair tread strips are placed ACROSS the diving board with a half inch space between them. This spacing allows water to run-off the side of the board. Normally, you need cover only the last 24" - 30" of the diving board (out over the water). Be sure to periodically check these to make sure they are all in place and securely attached. You may need to replace one or two as the season progresses -- it just depends. As soon as the season ends, contact Springboards and More to arrange pick-up and shipping of your diving board back to the Duraflex Factory. While at the factory, your diving board will undergo three different inspections and in most cases be approved for refinish. A factory refinished diving board looks brand new and includes new rubber channels, a new number strip and new attachment bolts. The approximate cost with shipping in both directions is about 1/3 the cost of a new diving board so it is an economical way to extend the life of your diving board.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 3 of 3)

The final piece of the puzzle to create a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board onto a Durafirm Diving Stand is to make sure the Roller Clamps ("C" shaped metal bands that hold the fulcrum roller to the fulcrum assembly) move between the 1st and 2nd "rib" of the diving board (on the foot wheel side) and between the 7th and 8th "rib" of the diving board on the non foot wheel side of the board.

If you get the 2nd element of a "perfect" installation correct AND you get one of your Roller Clamps to line up as shown in the photo above (between ribs 1 and 2) -- then the roller clamp on the other side of the fulcrum assembly will line up exactly the same on the other side of the board (between ribs 7 and 8). Since the rubber channels of the board and the slide tracks of the fulcrum are parallel (see part 2 of 3) -- the roller clamps will stay positioned between the ribs as the fulcrum is rolled back and forth.

The situation you want to avoid is where the rib of the diving board is directly on top of the roller clamp. When the diving board is bounced, it puts undue stress on all the working components of the fulcrum assembly and usually means your board is out of alignment and therefore not bending "squarely" over the fulcrum.

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 2 of 3)

The second element of a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board to a Durafirm Diving Stand is to make sure the Rubber Channels on the underside of the diving board are PARALLEL to the Slide Tracks of the Fulcrum Box.

Look at the picture above and notice how the Rubber Channel on the outside edge of the diving board is parallel to the Slide Track of the Fulcrum Box. This is important because it insures that the diving board and the fulcrum roller are PERPENDICULAR to each other and as a result, the diving boards bends in a straight line over the fulcrum.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 1 of 3)

In order to achieve a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board to a Durafirm Diving Stand, look for three things.

#1) The Diving Board is LEVEL.

In theory, the diving board should be level no matter where the fulcrum is set or or no matter where you "check" the board for being level. If we were to suggest a "standard" check -- it would be to set the fulcrum at the number "5" (on the calibrated number strip of the diving board) and then place a six foot long level on the installed diving board with the mid-point of the level over the fulcrum. In most cases, the TIP END of the diving board will be level if the standard check discussed above is level. (It is just difficult to get a level this far out on the diving board and be able to see it without falling into the pool. The photo above was taken of a dryland diving board.

There are several ways to level a diving board, but the most common way is to use Duraflex shims to first level the diving stand -- left to right and front to back. Then (in theory) the installed diving board will be level as well.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Duraflex Spare Parts -- Emergency Kit

I often get asked "what would be a good supply of Duraflex parts to keep on hand at my pool"? The answer really depends on how many diving boards that you have and if you have guard rails or not. So, in a nutshell, what follows is a list of parts that would make for a very nice emergency parts kit at a pool with 1-2 diving boards. I have also listed the tools and supplies you should keep on hand as well that are needed to change out these parts.


Qty. 2 -- Item #515 Rubber Bumpers for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty. 2 -- Item #516 Anti-Rattle Clamps for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty. 4 -- Item #518 Fulcrum Slide Bearings
Qty. 2 -- Item #521 Fulcrum Roller Clamps
Qty. 4 -- Item #524 Fulcrum Roller Bearings
Qty. 2 -- Item 528 Anti Rattle Bolt and Nuts for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty 4 -- Item 526 Tie Plate Bolt, Nut and Washer
Qty 4 -- Item SF152 Lock-nut for Roller Clamp Stud
Qty 2 -- Item 533 Roller Clamp Stud with Lock-nut
Qty 2 -- Item C203 Hinge Pin
Qty 8 -- Item C209 Hinge Pin Nyliner ("Bushing")
Qty 8 -- Item C210 Hinge Pin "O" Ring
Qty 4 -- Item SF106 Hinge Attachment Bolts and Nuts
Qty 4 -- Item SF105 Guard Rail Arm Attachment Bolts and Nuts
Qty 4 -- Item C207 Stainless Steel Guard Rail Band Clamp
Qty 8 -- Item SF117, SF118, SF119 and SF 153 -- Two of each -- Guard Rail Attachment Bolts
Qty 1 -- Item SF122 SET of 2 Diving Board Carriage Bolts, Washers and Nuts with Anti-seize lubricant


Qty 1 -- Item MP112 Set of EIGHT Rubber Channels with Glue Kit for Underside of Board
Qty 2 -- Item C208A Fulcrum Slide Tracks with Installation Bolts


15/16" Box Wrench -- For Diving Board Attachment Bolts and Diving Stand Attachment to deck.
9/16" Combo Wrench -- For Hinge Bolts; Guard Rail Arm Bolts, Fulcrum Anti-Rattle Bolts
1/2" Combo Wrench -- For Roller Clamp Stud Lock-nuts, Tie Plate Bolts and Guard Rail Attachment Bolts.
3 in 1 Oil -- To lubricate hinges
Mystik JT6 Grease -- 3 Ounce Tube with Grease Gun
Can or WD-40 or similar lubricant spray for cleaning slide tracks, etc.
Rags, old towels etc. for cleanup

We wish you a very safe and successful diving season!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Common Problem Seen at Summer Swim Clubs

Look at the picture above and (hopefully) you will notice that the diving board does not line-up correctly with the diving stand. If the fulcrum is rolled forward, it will roll off the rubber channels causing an unsafe "metal on metal" situation which is the quickest way to crack your board -- a $3,500.00 problem! This commonly seen situation occurs when a pool upgrades their diving board from a 16' Duraflex Board to a 16' Modified Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard." The installation "foot print" for the diving stand is dependant on what model diving board is installed upon it.

Although the two boards look similar to the untrained eye -- they are in fact very different. The Cheeseboard is tapered at BOTH ends of the board whereas the 16' Duraflex Board is tapered only at the end over the water. The Cheeseboard has about 200 perforations in the tip end of the board but the 16' Duraflex Board has none. The placement of the rubber channels on the underside of each diving board occurs at a different location because each board is designed to bend at a different spot.

The quick fix for this situation is to simply purchase a six inch set of rubber channels and attach them to the underside of your diving board in front of the existing 30" rubber channels currently installed. However, the long term (and correct) fix for this situation is to re-install the stand with the correct dimensions between the two parts (the Ladder Assembly and the Main Support). In a nutshell -- they need to be 5.5 inches closer together. This can be accomplished by moving the Main Support BACK 5.5 inches closer to the Ladder Assembly OR moving the Ladder Assembly 5.5 inches FORWARD. You can get a factory installation template as well as engineered Spec. Sheets to help you do this or you can hire a competent contractor to do the work for you.

Please note that the Duraflex Factory makes five different height 1M Diving Stands to conform to the myriad of pool deck to water levels found around the country. Before placing your order for an installation template and spec. sheet -- you will need to get the "casting number" from both your Main Support and Ladder Assembly as well as your pool deck to water level.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Even BAD Judges Can See That!


As you are all painfully aware, not all high school and summer league diving judges are as "competent" as we would hope but one thing is for sure -- even BAD judges can see!

We often see high school and summer league diving meets being judged (often reluctantly) by swimming officials who may not know much about diving. It is not unreasonable to assume that the only time they see diving is when they are sitting in the judging chair. However, regardless of their judging ability or knowledge of the sport -- they can and do see things! They CAN see things like non-vertical entries; bent legs; flat feet; big splashes; etc. Simple things like keeping your legs straight, feet together and toes pointed; going in straight on your dives with good entries -- these basic fundamentals are paramount to success in diving and should not be tossed aside as unimportant. They are of the utmost importance!

As I always tell my divers: "You need to be BETTER than bad judging"!

What Some Coaches Will Do To Get Kimball's Help!

Now that Kimball is "retired" -- he travels around the country helping other coaches at camps and clinics and is in constant demand. It is amazing how some coaches still feel about him.