So, Your New "Cheeseboard" Does NOT Fit Your Stand!?!?

You are all excited because your High School or Summer Swim Club ordered a new "Cheeseboard" and it just arrived from the factory. You are an experienced and savvy diving board customer so of course you know to INSPECT the diving board upon arrival by opening the box to look for any shipping damage in the presence of the driver. As is usually the case, no shipping damage has occurred so now you enthusiastically install the new "Cheeseboard" and much to your shock and dismay -- IT DOES NOT FIT! The fulcrum will only roll back to about the "7" on the number strip and even worse -- if you roll the fulcrum all the forward, it rolls OFF the rubber channels and onto the unprotected metal of the diving board in front of the "1" on the number strip. HOW COULD THIS BE?

There is a simple explanation for what has occurred. The diving stand that you have installed now was originally installed to accept the non-competition model diving board (aka the 16' Duraflex Board). The board you just purchased is the competition model diving board (aka the 16' Modified Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard"). If you were to lay a 16' Duraflex Diving Board next to a 16' Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard" (upside down) the first thing you would notice is the rubber channels on the underside of the "Cheeseboard" are 5.5 inches farther back than those of the 16' Duraflex Board. This is because the competition model board bends at a point that is farther back than that of the non-competition model board and therefore the installation footprint of the diving stand with Cheeseboard is 5.5 inches different from the installation footprint for a diving stand with a 16' Duraflex (non-competition board). The quickest way to ruin a diving board is to allow a metal on metal contact situation where the unprotected metal ribs of the diving board are allowed to bounce directly on the metal of the fulcrum roller. (Your $3500.00 "rocket ship" can become a $60.00 piece of scrap aluminum very quickly!)

The simple "fix" for this problem is to order a set of eight six-inch rubber channels with glue kit and attach them to the underside of the board directly in front of the existing rubber channels. While this will NOT allow you to get the full range of motion for the fulcrum back past the number "7," it will protect your diving board by making sure the fulcrum does not "roll off" the existing rubber channels as is the case now.

The correct "fix" is to un-install the main support (legs and fulcrum box) and re-install them 5.5" farther back OR remove the ladder assembly and re-install it 5.5" farther forward (assuming your pool depth and slope would allow for this moving the board forward). Most schools or clubs in your situation choose the first option until they have the time and money to do the 2nd option. Choosing the correct "fix" method not only protects your diving board from the "metal on metal" situation but it also allows the diver to get the full range of intended fulcrum settings.

Whichever method you choose -- it should be done before anybody is allowed to dive off the board. You never want the unprotected metal diving board bouncing directly on the metal fulcrum -- properly positioned rubber channels are a must!

Band-Aid for a Slippery Diving Board

If you have a Duraflex Diving Board and the non-slip surface is starting to show signs of wear, the ONLY acceptable "fix" is to send your diving board back to the Duraflex Factory for inspection and refinish.

Despite what you may hear from friendly sales people at Swimming Pool Supply Stores, there are NO acceptable products sold that you can use on your slippery (Duraflex) diving board that are approved by the Duraflex Factory. The question becomes, what can you use on your diving board to get you through the end of the season at which time you can then send your diving board back to Duraflex for a factory refinish. The factory approved answer is "3M Safety Walk Strips" that are sold at most big box or hardware stores around the country.

As you can see in the picture above, the adhesive backed stair tread strips are placed ACROSS the diving board with a half inch space between them. This spacing allows water to run-off the side of the board. Normally, you need cover only the last 24" - 30" of the diving board (out over the water). Be sure to periodically check these to make sure they are all in place and securely attached. You may need to replace one or two as the season progresses -- it just depends. As soon as the season ends, contact Springboards and More to arrange pick-up and shipping of your diving board back to the Duraflex Factory. While at the factory, your diving board will undergo three different inspections and in most cases be approved for refinish. A factory refinished diving board looks brand new and includes new rubber channels, a new number strip and new attachment bolts. The approximate cost with shipping in both directions is about 1/3 the cost of a new diving board so it is an economical way to extend the life of your diving board.

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 3 of 3)

The final piece of the puzzle to create a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board onto a Durafirm Diving Stand is to make sure the Roller Clamps ("C" shaped metal bands that hold the fulcrum roller to the fulcrum assembly) move between the 1st and 2nd "rib" of the diving board (on the foot wheel side) and between the 7th and 8th "rib" of the diving board on the non foot wheel side of the board.

If you get the 2nd element of a "perfect" installation correct AND you get one of your Roller Clamps to line up as shown in the photo above (between ribs 1 and 2) -- then the roller clamp on the other side of the fulcrum assembly will line up exactly the same on the other side of the board (between ribs 7 and 8). Since the rubber channels of the board and the slide tracks of the fulcrum are parallel (see part 2 of 3) -- the roller clamps will stay positioned between the ribs as the fulcrum is rolled back and forth.

The situation you want to avoid is where the rib of the diving board is directly on top of the roller clamp. When the diving board is bounced, it puts undue stress on all the working components of the fulcrum assembly and usually means your board is out of alignment and therefore not bending "squarely" over the fulcrum.

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 2 of 3)

The second element of a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board to a Durafirm Diving Stand is to make sure the Rubber Channels on the underside of the diving board are PARALLEL to the Slide Tracks of the Fulcrum Box.

Look at the picture above and notice how the Rubber Channel on the outside edge of the diving board is parallel to the Slide Track of the Fulcrum Box. This is important because it insures that the diving board and the fulcrum roller are PERPENDICULAR to each other and as a result, the diving boards bends in a straight line over the fulcrum.

The "Perfect" Installation (Part 1 of 3)

In order to achieve a "perfect" installation of a Duraflex Diving Board to a Durafirm Diving Stand, look for three things.

#1) The Diving Board is LEVEL.

In theory, the diving board should be level no matter where the fulcrum is set or or no matter where you "check" the board for being level. If we were to suggest a "standard" check -- it would be to set the fulcrum at the number "5" (on the calibrated number strip of the diving board) and then place a six foot long level on the installed diving board with the mid-point of the level over the fulcrum. In most cases, the TIP END of the diving board will be level if the standard check discussed above is level. (It is just difficult to get a level this far out on the diving board and be able to see it without falling into the pool. The photo above was taken of a dryland diving board.

There are several ways to level a diving board, but the most common way is to use Duraflex shims to first level the diving stand -- left to right and front to back. Then (in theory) the installed diving board will be level as well.

Duraflex Spare Parts -- Emergency Kit

I often get asked "what would be a good supply of Duraflex parts to keep on hand at my pool"? The answer really depends on how many diving boards that you have and if you have guard rails or not. So, in a nutshell, what follows is a list of parts that would make for a very nice emergency parts kit at a pool with 1-2 diving boards. I have also listed the tools and supplies you should keep on hand as well that are needed to change out these parts.

FOR SURE HAVE THESE PARTS:

Qty. 2 -- Item #515 Rubber Bumpers for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty. 2 -- Item #516 Anti-Rattle Clamps for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty. 4 -- Item #518 Fulcrum Slide Bearings
Qty. 2 -- Item #521 Fulcrum Roller Clamps
Qty. 4 -- Item #524 Fulcrum Roller Bearings
Qty. 2 -- Item 528 Anti Rattle Bolt and Nuts for Fulcrum Assembly
Qty 4 -- Item 526 Tie Plate Bolt, Nut and Washer
Qty 4 -- Item SF152 Lock-nut for Roller Clamp Stud
Qty 2 -- Item 533 Roller Clamp Stud with Lock-nut
Qty 2 -- Item C203 Hinge Pin
Qty 8 -- Item C209 Hinge Pin Nyliner ("Bushing")
Qty 8 -- Item C210 Hinge Pin "O" Ring
Qty 4 -- Item SF106 Hinge Attachment Bolts and Nuts
Qty 4 -- Item SF105 Guard Rail Arm Attachment Bolts and Nuts
Qty 4 -- Item C207 Stainless Steel Guard Rail Band Clamp
Qty 8 -- Item SF117, SF118, SF119 and SF 153 -- Two of each -- Guard Rail Attachment Bolts
Qty 1 -- Item SF122 SET of 2 Diving Board Carriage Bolts, Washers and Nuts with Anti-seize lubricant

OTHER ITEMS TO CONSIDER HAVING ON HAND:

Qty 1 -- Item MP112 Set of EIGHT Rubber Channels with Glue Kit for Underside of Board
Qty 2 -- Item C208A Fulcrum Slide Tracks with Installation Bolts

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES TO HAVE ON HAND:

15/16" Box Wrench -- For Diving Board Attachment Bolts and Diving Stand Attachment to deck.
9/16" Combo Wrench -- For Hinge Bolts; Guard Rail Arm Bolts, Fulcrum Anti-Rattle Bolts
1/2" Combo Wrench -- For Roller Clamp Stud Lock-nuts, Tie Plate Bolts and Guard Rail Attachment Bolts.
3 in 1 Oil -- To lubricate hinges
Mystik JT6 Grease -- 3 Ounce Tube with Grease Gun
Can or WD-40 or similar lubricant spray for cleaning slide tracks, etc.
Rags, old towels etc. for cleanup

We wish you a very safe and successful diving season!

Common Problem Seen at Summer Swim Clubs

Look at the picture above and (hopefully) you will notice that the diving board does not line-up correctly with the diving stand. If the fulcrum is rolled forward, it will roll off the rubber channels causing an unsafe "metal on metal" situation which is the quickest way to crack your board -- a $3,500.00 problem! This commonly seen situation occurs when a pool upgrades their diving board from a 16' Duraflex Board to a 16' Modified Maxiflex Model B "Cheeseboard." The installation "foot print" for the diving stand is dependant on what model diving board is installed upon it.

Although the two boards look similar to the untrained eye -- they are in fact very different. The Cheeseboard is tapered at BOTH ends of the board whereas the 16' Duraflex Board is tapered only at the end over the water. The Cheeseboard has about 200 perforations in the tip end of the board but the 16' Duraflex Board has none. The placement of the rubber channels on the underside of each diving board occurs at a different location because each board is designed to bend at a different spot.

The quick fix for this situation is to simply purchase a six inch set of rubber channels and attach them to the underside of your diving board in front of the existing 30" rubber channels currently installed. However, the long term (and correct) fix for this situation is to re-install the stand with the correct dimensions between the two parts (the Ladder Assembly and the Main Support). In a nutshell -- they need to be 5.5 inches closer together. This can be accomplished by moving the Main Support BACK 5.5 inches closer to the Ladder Assembly OR moving the Ladder Assembly 5.5 inches FORWARD. You can get a factory installation template as well as engineered Spec. Sheets to help you do this or you can hire a competent contractor to do the work for you.

Please note that the Duraflex Factory makes five different height 1M Diving Stands to conform to the myriad of pool deck to water levels found around the country. Before placing your order for an installation template and spec. sheet -- you will need to get the "casting number" from both your Main Support and Ladder Assembly as well as your pool deck to water level.

China Tour -- National Aquatic Training Center

Jet lag got the best of me so I did not sleep well the first night. Breakfast that next morning was an incredible buffet with more food that any person could even dream of eating. There was not much "American style" breakfast food but as they say: "when in Rome....."

After breakfast we headed to the National Aquatic Training Center. This was a special treat for us because it is not open to the public and there are guards at the gated entrance to the complex. After a brief introduction meeting with the facility director, we were taken to the famous dry land training room where a number of the younger Chinese National Team divers were practicing. Unfortunately, this room is considered "State secret" and we were strictly forbidden from taking photos in the dry land room. However, I can tell you that there were 15 (FIFTEEN) Cheeseboards on Short Stands into foam landing pits. These were surrounded by 6 (SIX) large trampolines with overhead spotting rigs and at the far end of the room was some one meter platforms and another diving board that went into a large in ground foam pit. Oh yeah -- one more thing -- there was another identical room just down the hallway. INCREDIBLE!!

We were then taken to the actual diving well where the training takes place. (See the photo above). There were 10 Springboards and a full set of towers. There was a "Bubbler" machine and overhead spotting rigs above a one meter and three meter springboard. The platforms were covered with 2-Ply Black Rough-tex and there were cameras and other recording devices all over the place. It was VERY WARM and humid in the pool area.

After a VERY short visit, we were whisked out of the building and to our waiting motor coach for travel to the Forbidden City and Tiannaman Square. We did not get to see any of the SEVEN Olympic Gold Medallists from China as they were all in Guangzhou for the 2010 Asian Games which we will attend in about a week.

Does Your Diving Board "Squeak"?

One question we often get at Springboards and More is "My diving board is squeaking -- what is the problem"?

The first thing you should do if your diving board is making strange noises is to do a visual inspection (while somebody is bouncing on the board) and try to determine from where the noise is coming. Is it the board itself or is it from the fulcrum area? Perhaps the hinge area? Maybe the guard rails? Could it be where the stand is bolted to the pool deck? Could it be a combination of some of these?

Often times, it is difficult to determine because noise travels so fast, it can be hard to pin point.

If you can isolate the noise, you should make the necessary adjustments to the fulcrum, guard rails, stand, etc. If you CANNOT isolate the noise, I would suggest you oil the hinges. Yes, that is correct -- oil the hinges. A Duraflex hinge has a "male" and "female" part that are held together with a (hinge) "pin" that is surrounded by four plastic Nyliners ("bushings") and an "O" ring at either end of the hinge pin to keep it from sliding out of the hinge.

You will notice that Duraflex hinges have a small hole in the center of the "male" portion. This is where you insert oil into the hinge assembly. (The Duraflex factory suggests 3 in 1 Oil). The hinges should be oiled every time you grease the fulcrum (about 2x per month). Every time the board is bounced, the hinge pin pivots inside the Nyliners and Hinge. If you do NOT oil the hinges, the (plastic) Nyliners (bushings) start to dry out and as the board is bounced, the hinge pins have difficulty pivoting inside the Nyliners and this is often times where you get the squeaking sound you hear when the board is bounced.

If the problem has persisted for quite some time, it is very possible that the Nyliners have cracked or broken and you may need to replace the hinge pin, the Nyliners and the "O" rings (aka the Hinge "Guts" Kit -- sold exclusively by Springboards and More).

Regardless of what needs to be done, remember the four "P's" and one "M" of diving board maintenance: Proper Maintenance Prevents Poor Performance (of your equipment).

The "Bad" Side of TIVO

Recently, while judging the SEC Championships at the beautiful University of Georgia Aquatic Center, I made an observation which really got me thinking.

Like many pools around the country where competitive divers train, the TIVO is an integral piece of equipment that is used on a daily basis. (For those who do not know, a TIVO is a device that looks like a VCR and which records and then plays back what was recorded on a delay set by the coach. This allows the diver to instantly see the dive they just performed and is considered a "must have" training tool for divers).

What I noticed is that most of the divers in the competition would do their dive and then go right to the TIVO to watch their dive BEFORE looking to their coach for corrections and suggestions for improvement. My thought was that this was BACKWARD. The diver should go to the coach FIRST to get coaching on the dive and THEN go to the TIVO to watch the dive paying close attention to what the coach told them they needed to do on the next attempt. This way, the diver does not fall into the potentially bad habit of coaching themselves and thinking they know the best way to make corrections to their dive.

Without a doubt, a TIVO is a great asset for every diving team because it certainly helps the divers improve at a faster pace by giving instant feedback about the dive HOWEVER; it is my humble suggestion that the following rule be established: The diver first comes to the coach to get advice and corrections on the dive BEFORE going to the TIVO to watch it.

When To Replace Spotting Rig Components

I often get asked the question "when is it time to replace components of a spotting rig?"

Certainly, a quick visual inspection of your spotting equipment should be done before every use. Are the ropes frayed? Are the swivel clips bent or broken? Does the spotting belt have any loose stitching? Is the rope running smoothly through the pulleys? etc. etc.

But the real answer depends on many factors including:

• How often is the spotting rig used?
• How big are the kids being spotted? (College age? High School? Age Group? Lessons?)
• How often is the spotting rig "shock-loaded"?
• How old are the ropes? The Pulleys? The Clips?
• What is the environment where the spotting rig is used? (Indoor? Outdoor? Near the ocean? Heavy chlorine environment? Direct sun?)
• How experienced is the person doing the spotting? (Very experienced? Novice?)

It is my suggestion that the coach or facility maintenance staff should closely inspect the entire spotting rig including the ropes, the pulleys, the swivel clips, the links that attach the pulleys to the spotting rig or the ceiling clamps, the rig itself or the ceiling attachment clamps at least twice per year -- more if the spotting equipment is used daily.

It is always best to err on the side of caution -- when in doubt or if not sure -- replace.

NOTE: Make sure the components you use are RESCUE RATED and designed and intended to be used for overhead lifting of human weight -- not the cheap imported rope and hardware sold at Big Box stores. Remember that Good Spotting Equipment is NOT Cheap and Cheap Spotting Equipment is NOT Good!

Now That Summer Diving Has Ended.......

Now that summer league and country club diving has ended, it is time to take care of your diving equipment -- particularly, if your Club has Duraflex and Durafirm Diving Equipment to make sure it is in good working order for next season. Here is what to do:

1) Remove your diving boards from the diving stands and inspect them -- both top and bottom. Inspect the top surface of the diving board to make sure the factory applied non-skid surface is still in good shape. Inspect the underside of the diving board (all eight ribs from front to back) for any cracks or missing rubber channels. If the diving board non-skid surface is beginning to wear or the board feels slippery to the touch (wet foot on wet board), now is the time to get it sent back to the Duraflex Factory for a refinish job. If the diving board is cracked, you must remove it from service and start planning for the purchase of a new board for next season. Contact Springboards and More for help with either of these two situations.

2) After inspecting your boards, store them out of the weather (in a shed, storage room, bath house, etc.). It is best to store them in a place where they will not be stepped on; driven over by a tractor or in any place where something could fall or be dropped on them. We suggest that your boards be stored on their side (see picture above -- but make sure board is inside and out of weather). You should also spray your diving board carriage bolts (the large bolts that attach the diving board to the diving stand) with WD-40 or similar product and wrap them in newspaper and place in a zip lock bag that you then tuck between the ribs of the underside of the diving board.

3) Using some old rags, wipe off any grease, dirt or grime from your fulcrum slide tracks, fulcrum assembly, hinges or the actual diving stand. We have found that a spray can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner does an excellent job of removing this type of gunk from your equipment. (You can find these products at any auto parts store for a few dollars per can).

4) Use large plastic garbage bags or tarps to completely cover the fulcrum assembly and hinge assembly of your diving stands. You can secure with duct tape or bungee cords -- being careful to NOT stick the duct tape to the actual diving stand. This cover is to protect the fulcrum and hinges as well as the epoxy paint coating of your diving stands from the weather.

You can now rest easy that your valuable and expensive diving equipment will be in good working order for next summer. It is amazing to me the number of summer swim clubs that leave their diving equipment uncovered and exposed to the elements all Fall, Winter and Spring and then wonder why it does not last as long as they thought it should.

DURAFLEX ANNOUNCES PRICE INCREASE!

The Duraflex International Corporation has announced a 5% across the board price increase effective for all orders that ship on or after January 1, 2010.

Due to the lead times involved with diving board and diving stands, the cut-off date for placing orders for these items to guarantee shipment before the end of the year (and therefore get current pricing) is December 1st, 2009. For small parts orders, the cut-off date to guarantee current pricing is December 28, 2009.

Pictured above is current Duraflex President JAN RUDE with her late father RAY RUDE -- the inventor of the Duraflex Diving Board. This photo was taken inside the main entrance to the Duraflex International Factory circa 2002.

Diving Related License Plates?!?!

In this day and age of customizing just about everything, I have seen some very clever custom license plates that got me thinking about DIVING related custom license plates.

Most states allow a maximum of seven letter or numbers per license plate. Here are some I have seen, used or thought of (in no particular order).

DIVE 10; A10DIVE; GR8DIVE;
GR8 RIP; GR8PIKE; NICERIP;
HIGH DD; DURAFLX; CHZBRD;
SPLASH; O SPLASH; NOSPLSH;
SMACK; FLATHND; 10 METER;
HISCORE; GLDMEDL; BADCALL;
GAINER; HNDSTND; DIVING;
TWISTER; DIVER; TITETUK;

SPINFST; RIPDIVE

Feel free to use any of these or please suggest other ideas for our readers to enjoy.

LET'S DIVE!!

How To Paint a Trampoline "String" Bed

Seems like an unusual article -- "How to Paint a Trampoline "String" Bed -- most people probably do not realize that this is part of the ongoing maintenance that needs to be done to your string bed to keep it in top working condition and help make it last a long time.

The Manufacturer recommends re-painting your String Bed every 6 – 12 months depending on usage. In extreme use cases -- such as sporting clubs -- repainting may be required as often as every 3 – 4 months.

If the trampoline is permanently sited outdoors, the frequency of repainting will need to be increased. Provided the correct repainting cycle is observed, the trampoline may be left outdoors indefinitely as the coated Terylene string is resistant to sunlight and rain.

PAINTING:

* Wash the bed with a VERY MILD soap and water solution using a soft bristle brush.
* Allow bed to completely dry before painting.
* Insert a pencil between each string intersection to straighten out the weave (even out the “boxes” created by the string intersections)
* Tape off red markings on mat both top and bottom.
* Spread drop cloths all around and underneath the bed – this is a very messy job!!
* Use a good quality acrylic paint.
* Paint should be applied while bed is mounted in frame.
* Apply paint with a roller applicator to BOTH top and bottom of the bed.
* Lightly tap bed with a piece of hose or a push broom to remove excess paint from weave.
* Quantity of paint needed -- 4 liter container should be sufficient for two coatings.

Trampoline String Beds are very expensive -- it only makes sense to upkeep and protect your investment. HAPPY JUMPING!!

THE ABC's of DIVING (M-Z)

• M -- MASTERY -- It takes years and years of practice to reach the top level of this sport.


• N -- NEVER GIVE UP -- If diving were easy, everybody would be doing it.


• O -- ON TIME -- It is better to be an hour early, that a minute late (for practice, meets, events, etc.)
  
• P -- PASSION -- Those who succeed in diving (or coaching diving) have this.


• Q -- QUICKNESS -- It is difficult to do the high DD dives if you do not have this physical attribute.


• R -- RIP -- If you cannot "RIP" a dive, chances are your diving career may R.I.P.


• S -- SMACK -- Avoid these if possible!
  
• T -- TOE POINT -- As far back as I can remember -- "flat feet" just do not bring rave reviews from the judges.


• U -- USE -- Use all resources available to make yourself a better diver.


• V -- VERY GOOD -- For judging purposes, a dive in the "Very Good" range should score from 8 1/2 - 10.


• W -- WASTE -- If you waste your time while at practice, it will definitely show at meets.


• X -- X-RAYS -- Poor kickouts or bad line-ups (especially on tower) could result in a trip to the hospital for some of these on your shoulders or wrists!
  
• Y -- YES -- Yes, you CAN do that dive!!


• Z -- ZERO -- An unsuccessful attempt or an incorrect dive results in this score from the judges.

Diving Words To Live By:

"You Cannot Expect Above Average Results With Below Average Preparation"

The ABC's of Diving (A-L)

• A -- ATTITUDE -- Better have a good one or you will not be successful (in anything)


• B -- BALANCE -- Such a critical part of every hurdle, takeoff and arm stand.
  
• C -- CHEESEBOARD -- has 189 "cheese holes" in it -- yes, I counted them!


• D -- DETERMINATION & DESIRE -- A diver must WANT to be great -- not going to happen by accident.
  
• E -- ENTRY -- The last thing the judges see. Should be vertical and with little or no splash!


• F -- FLEXIBILITY -- In order to do the BIG tricks these days (most are in pike position) -- a diver must be very flexible.


• G -- GUTS -- Being a diver -- especially a tower diver -- requires these.


• H -- HEIGHT -- With all dives, the higher you jump, the better.


• I -- IMPRESS -- Your dives better do this to the judges if you want to be successful.


• J -- JUDGES -- See letter "I" above.


• K -- KICKOUT -- There is a proper way and sequence for this -- better learn the right way!


• L -- LINEUP -- It does not matter how good the dive was, if you cannot line-up the entry, it will not score well from the judges.

CHECK BACK LATER FOR THE ABC's OF DIVING (M-Z)

THE FIVE "P's" OF DIVING:

"Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance"

Duraflex Announces Modification to the "Cheeseboard"

Duraflex International has announced a product improvement to the Maxiflex Model B ("Cheeseboard") diving board effective March 1, 2009. The change involves the area where the diving board attaches to the hinges which has been re-designed to improve the quality and longevity.

The new anchor angle is a rigid, heavy-duty hard-anodized aluminum angle that is mounted under the diving board and supports all 8 of the diving board ribs. This new anchor angle is assembled AFTER painting, which eliminates the contact between unpainted surfaces in this area, which provides better protection against corrosion. The Duraflex factory has added closed-cell foam gaskets between these components to reduce noise and prevent moisture from accumulating.

The top of the board is capped with a hard-anodized aluminum bar that, in conjunction the anchor angle, acts as a clamp, sandwiching the diving board between these two extrusions. This clamping action creates a highly stable mounting mechanism. This assembly is fastened together with flat-head stainless steel fasteners and torqued at the factory. The fasteners are locked in place with a permanent Loctite brand thread-locker. Heavy duty 3M Safety-Walk strip covers the fasteners, preventing tampering and providing a slip-resistant surface over the anodized surface. Replacement strips will be available.

The serial tag has been replaced with a tamper-resistant adhesive back aluminum label that is now applied to the VERTICAL surface at the rear of the diving board.

The warning label that was applied to the back of the board is directed at equipment installers and pool operators, and indicates that the pool dimensions must meet certain specifications. This label has been changed to a yellow label with a universally recognized symbol that indicates “warning.” On the Cheeseboard, this label is on the bottom of the new anchor angle. On all other boards, including refinished boards, this label is on the rear of the diving board. An additional warning label has been added to the board that is directed at the user (diver.) This label is intended to warn that improper use of diving equipment can lead to severe injury. This label is now attached to the rear of all Duraflex made diving boards.

The NEW diving board bolts are stainless-steel "short-neck" carriage bolts. The shortened neck only penetrates through the bar on top of the board, which eliminates the need to broach a square hole through the diving board. This increases the strength and longevity of the diving board.

Check For Damage!

One mistake customers sometimes make when buying a diving board is to NOT inspect the shipment when it arrives.

The Duraflex factory takes great care to securely "box" each diving board that leaves the factory and they have the words "Do Not Fork" written all over the outside of these boxes; however, shipping companies apparently do not read AND they often do not handle freight with white gloves. As a result, damage to your diving board can occur.

A diving board that is damaged in shipment does not happen often, but when it does, you could be left holding the bag when it comes to getting a (free) replacement. If you sign for the delivery WITHOUT inspecting it, you run the risk of finding concealed damage later. The shipping company will argue that you signed for the freight as "okay" so therefore the damage must have occurred AFTER the freight was delivered -- ergo, it is YOUR responsibility.

THE SIMPLE WAY TO AVOID THIS HEADACHE: When the freight company delivers your diving board, make sure you open the box and inspect the shipment in the presence of the driver. Be sure to inspect the entire board (top and underside) for any dings, dents, scratches or blemishes. Usually they are very noticeable and are often caused by a forklift "hitting" the board or running over it while it sits on the ground. If the damage is minor, Duraflex will send to you (free of charge) a small touch-up paint kit. If the damage is NOT minor, you can refuse the shipment, or you could also "accept" it but be sure to note the damage on the delivery receipt and then contact the freight company to request an inspector. Be sure to keep all packing materials and paperwork for the inspection.

After inspection, the freight company will, in most cases, ship the damaged board back to Duraflex and they in turn will inspect it, repair it (if possible) and then send you a new board (or your repaired board) free of charge. Yes you end up waiting an extra week or so to get your diving board but at least you are not stuck with damaged goods.

MORAL TO THE STORY: Always inspect the shipment when it arrives to you!!

How To Keep "Rough-tex" Looking Good

Rough-tex – the preferred non-skid surface for diving platforms -- has one frequent complaint. It has such good “grip” that it easily collects hair, paint chips and other miscellaneous things that drop onto it during the course of a day.

Here is a great tip for how to clean this "ugliness" off of your Rough-tex. This comes from BENJAMIN ROBERTS -- the very capable Asst. Aquatic Director at The Ohio State University and the person who is charged with keeping one of the finest diving facilities in the world in top working condition.

Take a piece of PVC pipe (about four feet long and three inches in diameter) and wrap duct tape around the PVC Pipe with the sticky side facing outward. Then, just like a large lint brush, roll the sticky PVC pipe back and forth across the Rough-tex and it picks up most of the debris that has attached itself to the Rough-tex. (Make sure the Rough-tex is dry before doing this!)

Afterwards, do a quick power washing of the Rough-tex to remove any remaining debris or oils or anything else that could make the Rough-tex lose some if it's non-skid grip.